Tuesday 20 August 2019

Andaman: Call of the Emerald Waters; The Itinerary Question

Andaman; only the name is enough to make you imagine white pristine beaches and emerald blue waters. This colouration is where these Islands gets its name "the Emerald Islands". I shall dedicate another post for my 12 day journey in these islands in details but first let me clarify a few doubts harboured by people who want to go there.

1. How many days will it take to cover the Andaman and Nicober Islands?

    First, the Nicober islands are off-limits to tourists, only the tribal people who live there and on-duty Indian Navy personnel are allowed.
   Secondly, there are more than 500 islands but only 30-35 are permanently inhabited by people (tribal or otherwise). Even out of these few only 7-8 are open for tourists. This may seem like a very small number but trust me, to cover all these islands you will need about 20 days in total.
   But thankfully you can also visit the islands with just 5 days in hand. As you can see there is no easy way to answer this question, the number of days depends on how much of the region you wish to explore.
   My suggestion is take as many days as you can afford, you will not get bored or run out of places to visit.
Coral Bridge, Laxmanpur Beach, Neil Island: One of the most iconic landmarks in Andaman

2. Travel agency or Self-Planned ?

If you are planning to go in the peak seasons (October - January end) you may face difficulties in getting accommodation after reaching the islands. It is therefore recommended that you book hotels beforehand (via travel agencies or on your own). The problem is there is no internet connection (not mobile phone internet, anyway) and hence it is not possible to book most of the hotels online in a reliable manner.
The travel agencies have sources on the island who executes these bookings on your behalf. But if you can book the rest houses managed by Andaman tourism development corporation (a government organisation) it is ensured that you will get the best views.
Arranging cars and ferry services on your own may proof troublesome as well, travel agencies do make things easier but at the cost of money and flexibility of course. if you have sufficient time and if you are trained to adapt to tricky situations, I say, go for a self planned trip. if you study enough, you will be able to see places that most tourists do not go to.
In my opinion, book hotels on your own or give preference to the agency but leave the transport to a reliable agency. Just mention your planned itinerary and let the agency do the rest.

3. Itinerary:


6 DAYS 5 NIGHTS:
With this you will be able to say to people, 'yes, I have been to the Andamans'
Day 1> Port Blair.
Day 2 > Baratang (Lime stone cave + mud volcano) - Back to Port Blair
Day 3> (Ross island, North bay island // Jolly boy-Redskin islands )+ Chiriya Tappu
Day 4> Port Blair - Neil Island - Havelock Island (night stay)
Day 5> Havelock Island - Port Blair
Day 6> Port Blair - flight back

9 DAYS 8 NIGHTS:
This itinerary allows you to explore the entire length of the Andaman islands from the South to North and back.
Day 1>  Port Blair.
Day 2 > Baratang (Lime stone cave + mud volcano) - Rangat (Night stay)
Day 3>  Rangat - Diglipur
Day 4>  Diglipur - Port Blair
Day 5>  (Ross island, North bay island // Jolly boy-Redskin islands )+ Chiriya Tappu
Day 6>  Port Blair - Havelock Island (night stay)
Day 7>  Havelock Island - Neil Island (night stay)
Day 8>  Neil Island - Port Blair
Day 9>  Port Blair - flight back

14 DAYS 13 NIGHTS:
Leave no stones un-turned.

Day 1>  Port Blair.
Day 2 > Baratang (Lime stone cave + mud volcano) - Rangat (Night stay)
Day 3>  Rangat - Diglipur
Day 4>  Diglipur - Port Blair
Day 5>  (Ross island, North bay island // Jolly boy-Redskin islands )+ Chiriya Tappu
Day 6>  Port Blair - Havelock Island (night stay)
Day 7>  Havelock island (leisure)
Day 8>  Havelock Island - Neil Island (night stay)
Day 9>  Neil Island - Port Blair
Day 10> Port Blair - Little Andaman
Day 11> Little Andaman (Leisure)
Day 12> Little Andaman - Port Blair
Day 13> Port Blair (sight seeing)
Day 14> Port Blair - flight back

Now let me give a brief description of the places that I have mentioned in the itinerary.

1. Port Blair: 
This is the capital city of the Andaman and Nicober Islands. It has a very large port and the only airport. Port Blair is situated in the Southern part of the islands. Among many others, the following are the places of interest.
NOTE: Most tourist attractions remain closed on Monday.
Cellular Jail

  • Cellular Jail: The infamous Cellular Jail where the most daring freedom fighters were sent by the British Colonisers. The jail itself was built by the inmates, between 1896 and 1906; and the brick walls are the only witness to the inhuman torture the prisoners were subjected to. A wonderful 30 minute light and sound show is played each evening both in English and Hindi. Generally, the first show is in Hindi (5.30 onward) and the later one is in English. Though as far as I know these timings differ widely. The jail museum is open on all days except national holidays from 09:00 am to 12:30 pm and 1.30 pm to 4.45 pm.
  • Chatham Saw Mill: Established in 1883 it is one of the oldest in the world.
  • Sagarika Emporium, Anthropological Museum, Samudrika Marine Museum, etc. etc.
2. Baratang:

Baratang island is about 100km from Port Blair. The road to this island goes through dense forests populated by the Jarwa Tribespeople. The island boasts the only limestone cave in these parts and the only mud volcano in India.
Limestone cave, Baratang

Mud volcano, Baratang

3. Rangat/ Middle Andaman:
Spending a night at Rangat, a small town in Middle Andaman is a good idea because it lets you enjoy gorgeous sunrises on the beaches like Amkunj, Morice Dera. On your way to North Andaman, you can also enjoy a walk through dense mangroves at Dhanninallah Mangrove Creek. And the lush forest can be enjoyed much better during day-time.
Amkunj Beach, Middle Andaman


4. Mayabunder:
Mayabunder is a scenic port in Middle Andaman.
5. Diglipur/North Andaman:
Diglipur is the main town of North Andaman. You would find pristine beaches like the Kalipur Beach, known as a breeding ground for sea-turtles. Twin islands Ross & Smith, connected by a sand bridge is a sight to remember.
Kalipur Beach, Diglipur, North Andaman

6. Havelock Island:
This island is probably most popular after Port Blair. Famous for great white beaches and emerald blue waters, Havelock is a magnet for tourists all over the world. Radhanagar beach is by far the most popular. Elephant beach is known for water activities like scuba diving, snorkeling and other joy rides. One of the most beautiful beaches, which will give Radhanagar a run for its money is the Kalapathar beach.
Kalapathar Beach, Havelock Island

7. Neil Island:
A small neighbour of Havelock, this island is by no means any less attractive. Sitapur beach offers probably the best sunrise in all of Andaman. Lakshmanpur beach houses the iconic coral arch. Bharatpur beach is adjacent to the jetty and a popular destination for glass-bottom boat ride and swimming.
Sunrise from Sitapur Beach, Neil Island

8. Ross Island:
An island where you can see the remnants of the lavish life British Army officers. The island is full of destroyed structures like a church, some houses and most of them are reclaimed by nature. It is definitely a must-see place.
There are other islands to explore if you want to explore the islands even more (as you should) add the following
1. Parrot Island
2. Long Island
3. Visit  Ross Island, North bay island & Jolly boy-Redskin islands in two days
4. Hike to Mount Harriet
Deer in Ross island

Nature reclaimed structure: Ross Island

9. Little Andaman:
All of the tourism agencies will tell you "There is NOTHING to see or do in Little Andaman" and they are dead wrong.
It is a paradise island far (80 nautical miles away) from the "madding crowd". If you want to live a few days in peace, have some privacy in the lap of nature then this is the place to visit.
Only government-run ships go from Port-Blair to Little Andaman and that too not daily. So you have to plan ahead and keep a day or two as a buffer. The tickets are very cheap and the journey takes about 6 to 8 hours depending on the weather condition and speed of the ship.
This island has the only waterfall in the entire Andamans. The pristine beaches are a treat for eyes and the perfect blue water is amazingly relaxing.
This was just a brief introduction to the wonder that is the Emerald islands. Do not fall for the statements like 'there is not much to see', '5 days are enough'. Decide on your own, ask yourself what you want out of this vacation.
Leave comments on how you liked my post. For more information, stay tuned or ask me questions.

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