Hampta Pass : Gateway from Kullu to Spiti

The most baffling thing about the Hampta Pass trek, which sets it apart from the plethora of treks in the Himalayas is neither its remote location nor the challenges it offers but the absolutely contrasting vistas presented by the lush green Kullu valley and the rugged and dry Spiti valley. The high mountain pass acts as a gateway to an entirely different world, very few treks offer this dramatic transition. I shall now delve into the details of this trek objectively, before telling my own experience.

Location: 

The popular approach is from Hampta dam which is located at a distance of about 12km from Manali in Himachal Pradesh. From there the trek starts and after crossing the pass ends at Chhatru /Chatru, a small village on the Gramfu-Batal-Kaza road. The trek can also be done the other way round.

For your reference here is a map for the entire trek route assuming you will return via the Rohtang Pass to Manali.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1BYQMqXP4uHdTKkvS5h5TvJgvImlVmk5V&ll=32.2516034500031%2C77.2703254999999&z=11

Season: 

Try avoiding the monsoon at all costs. October - early November is definitely the best season. The roadway remains closed due to heavy snow accumulation till mid-August. 

A note of caution: The travel agencies will tell you anything to keep their business running all year long, but do not make the mistake of taking any trek lightly irrespective of the tags like 'easy', 'moderate'. Depending upon factors like weather, River level which are beyond human control,  a so-called easy hike in the Himalayas may seem to be an insurmountable obstacle.

Pindari Diaries

The entire Northern part of the Indian Subcontinent forms a giant biosphere. This eco-system, one of the most diverse in the whole world, owes the abundance of life to several great rivers flowing thorough this region. And all of these rivers starts from the high glaciers of the Himalayas, the largest and tallest of all mountains. It comes as no surprise that billions of people of these regions humble themselves at the feet of these mountains and rivers. We literally owe our lives to the Great mountains and mighty rivers that flow from them. For centuries these pristine glaciers have attracted adventurers and pilgrims alike.
I along with my friends followed the Pindar river to the fabled Pindari glacier (3660 mtrs) and the journey has been a fabulous experience for us.

Warning Signs; An Appeal:

The glaciers melt throughout the year and form the rivers and every winter it rebuilds itself from rain and snow. But due to global warming, the average temperature is rising every year and the glaciers are melting away at a much faster rate than it can build itself. This glacial recession is happening right now, and it is happening more rapidly than the glaciologists have anticipated. When I visited Pindari glacier and compared the current state with the photographs my mother took, about 30 years ago, I was shocked to see how much of the glacier had eroded away.

I urge the readers to do their part to make sure these glaciers survive, otherwise the entire ecosystem will be devastated within this century.
1. Do not litter the trek routes, carry back every bit of plastic you bring with you.
2. Do not cut tree branches unnecessarily . Do not pick flowers or plants.

" Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints"  

Pindari Glacier

Season:  April -May; September - October

Satkosia ; A Hidden Gem on The Bank of Mahanadi

The diversity of flora and fauna that we Indians are blessed with is facing devastation. Pollution, poaching, deforestation, urbanisation, large-scale hydro-electric projects all of these factors and more are catalysing this cataclysmic phenomenon. The most alarming part is the lack of awareness of our people and our utter ignorance. Tourism can help raise awareness if done in a eco-friendly manner. When in the wilderness we must tune ourselves in such a way that we do not leave any lasting impact on that place. A wilderness explorer must be a silent observer.
Satkosia Tiger Reserve boasts a diverse gorge eco-system with deciduous plants. It is situated at the bank of river Mahanadi, the largest river in the state of Orissa. A great place for wildlife enthusiasts to spend a few days in.

Tikarpara Nature Camp

BOOKING:

Booking and entry permit is done officially through the website of Orissa eco-tourism.
https://www.ecotourodisha.com/index.php
 Please check the current rates from the site. At the time of our booking it was around 2500-4000 Rs. for 2 persons (Including food and lodging) depending on the location. But the online transaction takes a whopping 10% of the total amount as transaction fees. Another thing to note is that the payment portal DOES NOT accept RUPAY cards ( even though that is not mentioned in the website).
Alternatively you can try your luck by spot booking , that would spare you the transaction charges, but I would not advise that. You can stay at one place for maximum of 2 days at a stretch.

Here are a few contact numbers:
DFO Office Satkosia: +918763102681
Shamim Chauhan (Site Manager Satkosia) : +8658023333

Har Ki Dun : The Valley of Lord Shiva & Marinda Tal

 Introduction: 

  Har Ki Dun/Doon (HKD) is a cradle shaped valley surrounded by breath-taking snowpeaks situated in the Gahrwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand. Its an ideal trek for beginners and has many aspects that the veterans will appreciate as well. The valley is overlooked by the Bandarpunch range to the South and the Swargarohini to the North . Har Ki Dun means The Valley of Har or Lord Shiva of the Hindu religion. The valley is situated at and altitude of approximately 3566 mtrs.

Bandarpunch range overlooking Jamdar Glacier & Har Ki Dun Valley

Reasons why it is an ideal trek for beginners:  

1. The altitude is below the threshold of altitude sickness.
2. The route has sufficient places to stay , so no need to take tents and other equipments.
3. The trekking route consists of river banks , jungles,green meadows (Bugyals), picturesque villages, wheat fields and what not.In most seasons there is snow as well. So a novice trekker gets the necessary experience to tackle every terrain in one go.
4. There are many agencies operating in this zone which makes it easier for the beginners to organize themselves.
5. The view is amazing.
6. After reaching HKD one can go further to Marinda Tal or Jamdar Glacier.

Sankri

Season:

• Want a lot of snow ? March-April. (accommodation not available)
• Want snow and greenery and blue sky ? April-May
• June-July is rainy season so its better to avoid them.
• September-October is probably the best time because there will a lot of flora and fauna, but chances of finding snow is slim.
• HKD offers winter trekking as well but on November-December-January there may be a lot of snow. The accommodation at HKD remains closed so tent is a must.
  

  

Banderpunch Peak From Har-Ki-Dun

Itinerary:

Day 1: Dehradun to Sankri/Taluka

Day 2: Sankri/Taluka to Seema (14 Km trek) [easy gradient]

Day 3: Seema to Har Ki Dun (12Km trek) [moderate to steep gradient]

Day 4: HKD to Marinda Tal and Back (3.5+3.5 = 7Km) or alternatively HKD to Jamdar Glacier    (7.5+7.5 = 15 Km).

Day 5: HKD to Taluka/Osla/Gangad.

Day 6: Taluka to Sankri.

Day 7: Sankri to Dehradun.

Cons:

Well there aren't many, but here goes...

1. HKD has become a hot-spot for trekkers. Many large agencies bring people in large numbers without any regard for the environment. These people do not have the ability or intention of carrying their own luggage so the agencies bring huge number of mules and they ruin the entire route with their dung. Luckily for us we encountered the problem in the very last day but even that was annoying.
2. Unlike other trekking routes that I have been to, people here are a bit reluctant to provide hot water for drinking and washing.
3. Large agencies tend to hog all the resources available along the way including rest houses and sometimes food.

Do you Need A GUIDE ?

• We did this trek without a guide/porter but certainly not without guidance. From Taluka to Seema most of the path leads through a forest but the path is well marked. There are a few diversions but sticking to wider path and looking out for mule hoof marks and candy wraps helps a lot. The route all the way to HKD is fairly obvious so there is little chance of getting lost if one uses presence of mind.
• If you are a BEGINNER and do not have an EXPERIENCED MEMBER with you its imperative that you take a guide.
• The guides can explain you the other routes and the peaks too, a good guide can give you first hand information about the place.
• The locals will readily help you if you get into a fix.
• The cost of a guide / porter as of 2014 is around 500-600 Rs / day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOuNKswMjpo

Watch the slideshow of the Beautiful Har Ki Dun valley.

DAY 1:   (Dehradun to Taluka)

After a long journey to Dehradun on the following day we boarded a bus bound for Sankri. At Naitwar, we stopped to get our permits to enter Govind Wildlife Sanctuary. Sankri is the last point in this route, with bus and cell-phone connectivity. Another scenic drive along the river Tons or Tomosa took us to Taluka. Most trekkers spend the night at Sankri and make the journey to Taluka in the morning and so naturally we were the only tourists in the entire village. After our dinner we looked up at the sky and stood there spellbound by the glitter of billions of sparkling stars. We even spotted a satellite which passed over our heads and disappeared behind the dark silhouette of a hill. The chilly mountain-breeze broke our trance and we settled in for the night.

Way to HKD

DAY 2: Taluka to Seema (14 Km trek) [easy gradient]

In the next morning we confidently started our 14 km trek to Seema, without any guide or porter. The first few kilometres along river Supin were truly refreshing; the golden rays of the sun penetrated the pine canopy every now and then as if playing peek-a-boo and exotic birds created a sweet melody.



The uphill climb through the forest was gruelling and my rucksack felt twice as heavy as it did in the first few hours. We were resting frequently as the climb became steeper. In the early afternoon we reached the beautiful village of Gangad, from there Seema is another 4 km uphill. It took us six hours to reach Seema from Taluka. Seema is just a halting point for trekkers and climbers, consisting of Rest Houses of Gahrwal Mandal Vikash Nigam and the Forest Department and two-three canteens cum makeshift shelters.



Unlike Taluka the night sky was covered with clouds. At night we slept like logs in the GMVN dormitory, unaware of the rampage Mother Nature was causing outside.

Seema

DAY 3:  Seema to Har Ki Dun (12Km trek) [moderate to steep gradient]

The rain let up in the morning and we started our 12 km journey to Har-Ki-Dun, the valley of “Har” or Shiva. The sky was blue and we could see the glistening snow peaks at a distance. After the initial climb the path bifurcates, the left one leading to Osla village and the right one towards Har-Ki-Dun, following a tributary of Tomosa. The narrow path led us through lush green fields, pine forests, wide grasslands and offered pleasing vistas of snow-white mountains throughout. We were very tired, every step took extra effort but we kept on going. Just when I thought I could go no more, I spotted a rock on which someone had scribbled “Welcome To Har-Ki-Dun.”




After taking those last few steps, we stood there, overwhelmed by the sheer grandeur of the place. Our aching limbs and the gripping cold forced our attention to the more immediate issue of finding a shelter. There were a few tents erected by trekkers and at a distance we could see the FRH and GMVN bungalow situated over a ridge, directly overlooking the valley. We were allotted a small hexagonal wooden hut maintained by the forest department. After an early dinner we went to bed.


 

Har Ki Dun (GMVN Bungalow)

 DAY 4: HKD to Marinda Tal and Back (3.5+3.5 = 7Km)

The next morning we had a good look at the magnificent panorama of Har-Ki-Dun. To the south the towering Swargarohini massif provides a majestic backdrop to the green valley. The river Har-Ki-Dun-Gad flows through the “U”-shaped valley from Jamdar glacier like a silver ribbon. At a distance we could also see the precipitous Banderpunch range. Swargarohini means “Pathway to Heaven”, legend has it that the Pandavas from the epic Mahabharata attempted to climb it to reach Heaven.



After breakfast we headed north, for Marinda Tal. It is a fine 3.5 km trek over grassy meadows ornamented with colourful wild-flowers and soft snow.

Marinda Tal

Marinda Tal is not a lake per se, a giant rock partially blocked the path of Marinda Gad, thus forming a wide water-body with little current. To the south one could see the Swargarohini and towards the north the Borasu pass continued through snow-covered cliffs on both sides, all the way to Sangla Valley in Himachal Pradesh. After spending an hour in this snowy fairyland, with a heavy heart we started our return journey.

Borasu Pass

The breath-taking views, the eerie silence of Har-Ki-Dun generates a sense of mystery and tranquillity. It is indeed a land of legends and a valley befitting God.

Kaikhali ; A weekend trip (1)

Kaikhali is a small land adjoining the confluence where Matla and Nimaniya rivers flow in to the Bay of Bengal. This place has river banks full of mangroves like  Garan, Golappata, Hogla, Sundri, etc. The boat-ride on the Matla is sure a very refreshing experience. I would not miss the beauty of it on a moonlit night or twilight, the next time I visit. This place is practically within the Sunderban area. Some boats take tourists in the depth of the jungle where tigers are claimed to come out. I would not put too much faith in that though.

Season:  The best season to visit the Sunderbans is definitely the winter.


How to Reach : From anywhere in Kolkata first you have to reach Sealdah railway station. As far as I know there are no buses available which goes directly to Kaikhali. Reserved buses and cars are available though if you are going with a large group.

From Sealdah you have to go to Joynagar-Majilpur station by either Lakhsmikantapur local or Namkhana Local.
Word of advice , these trains can get crowded pretty nastily so if you are not confident enough to handle it , do opt for road journey. But the roads here are not buttery smooth either.


From Joynagar-Majilpur station you can either go to Kaikhali directly or make a break-journey.
Case 1: The only way to reach Kaikhali directly is apparently auto-rickshaw. You have to reserve an auto (short for auto-rickshaw). They will charge anything from Rs 250 to Rs 500 for one-way journey. If you do not plan to stay overnight make sure to book the auto for the return journey. The price mostly depends on the season and your bargaining skills.


In our case we booked two autos for a total sum of 1200 Rs in the condition that we will start our return journey by 3p.m.

Case 2: From Joynagar you can take bus or auto to get to Jamtala. This will not cost you much as this is the regular route for the locals. But the buses are crowded to the roof. From Jamtala you will have to reserve another auto to get to Kaikhali.

The total distance is 35 km and can take a toll when you are hanging from an auto-rickshaw.


Description: The entire bank of river Matla at Kaikhali has concrete embankment. We stroller leisurely on them and found a crowd at a distance. Curious, we went there and found that boats can be booked for 950 Rs. Each boat can hold upto 12 people ,not anymore. So it is wise to go in groups of at-least 10 people.

Boats for hire

We took a boat without further delay because the auto will charge extra for any delay after 3.30pm. The boat journey was truly spectacular. The river was so vast that the other bank appeared to be just a light mist. The water was gleaming like silver and it was really hard to keep our eyes open. I suggest you bring your sun-glasses.

The riverbank in sight were full of lush green mangrove trees. It was truly a magnificent sight to behold.

                          

The boat journey was to another small town called Jharkhali (jhar = storm in Bengali). It is a nice little place full of green trees and has the atmosphere of a village fair. People were buying and selling various food items.

There is a Butterfly Park with an entree fee of 10Rs. In it there is a children's park ,a watchtower and plants on which the butterflies prefer to lay their eggs on.

The monkeys here are quite handful. do not feed them and keep your valuables away from them.

The return journey had a soothing feel as the sun was a bit gentler and the sky revealed its blue colour.

Jharkhali

There is a small market near the boat-ghat. You can get lunch there for decent price. The food is quite good. On out way back we visited the Nimpith Ramkrishna Ashram. Do not miss it.

Nimpith Ashram

Then we returned back to Joynagar. As most Bengali will tell you " You Just DON'T " come back from Joynagar without tasting Joynagar's "MOA" , a sweet delicacy made of Kheer (condensed dried sweetened milk ),Khoi (puffed rice) and of-course the fragrant Nolen Gurh ( sweet sap tapped from Date palm trees ). There is a high probability that you will be deceived while buying these. So try avoiding small vendors or shops. Bunchki Babu's shop is near the station and sells good quality Moas.

This winter let Kaikhali be your destination.

More details are coming soon ....................

Kalpeshwar ; Tranquility Redefined

Unlike other shrines of Panchkedar Kalpeshwar is not situated on top of a hill with spectacular view of dazzling snow-peaks. But what it offers is a peaceful environment to spend a few days which is priceless if you are in the season of Chardham Yatra. Generally the pre-monsoon season in Uttarakhand is crowded like anything. So after you finish visiting your place of interest you can visit this place and stay for a few days.

Natural-Gate-way To Devagram

Season: Post monsoon seems to be the better season to visit this place (September -November). Pre monsoon is good too.

 

How to Reach: From anywhere in India first you have to reach Haridwar which is half a days journey from the capital Delhi. From Haridwar you have to reach Joshimath ,which is an important town in the Badrinath route. From there one can get shared cars to Urgam. Previously cars could only go to Helong and a full 10Km trek was to be done through jungles and hills. Now fortunately or unfortunately the road is extended to Urgam. By 2014-2015 it is expected that the motorable road will go upto Kalpeswar.

On the Way to Devgram

From Urgam it is like 2.5 km walk to Devgram. This walk is quite refreshing as the entire route is through wheat and vegetable fields and there is no climb so far as altitude is concerned. The following pictures will give you an idea.

Indian house sparrow

Stunning cactus blossom

Fertile lands of Devgram

Pathik Rest House

Before going to the temple its best if you leave your luggage at the lodge. There may be others but this one surely catches the eye. Pathik Rest house is really a nice cozy place to stay. The people are
very caring and nice.

Dahlia & Dragonfly

After a little rest and much needed lunch I started for the Kalpeshwar temple. On the way you can find many things that will grab your attention and spark your curiosity .

Jungle blue-berries

On the way I found these berries,according to the locals theses are favourite food for local bears. But as you can see there are so many left for the bears means that its not edible for us.

This bridge connected the temple to Devgram,(but sadly right after the catastrophe of Uttarakhand in 2013 this bridge was destroyed).

Kalpeshwar Temple

Photography inside the temple is prohibited

There are some other temples in the village. The shrine of "Dhyan Badri " is probably the most popular of them.

Snake lily

The bottom line is that its the perfect place for relaxing after a tough trek or hectic traveling.

The waterfall above is situated near the temple of Kalpeshwar. You can ask the locals for directions. Its a perfect little place for taking a bath without any danger of being washed away by the river. We have spent nearly two hours just sitting there and enjoying the pristine beauty.

The people of Devgram like most other villages of Himalayas have a honest pride in what they are and how they live. Their hospitality is unmatched.

Stunning sun-set at Devgram