Pindari Diaries

The entire Northern part of the Indian Subcontinent forms a giant biosphere. This eco-system, one of the most diverse in the whole world, owes the abundance of life to several great rivers flowing thorough this region. And all of these rivers starts from the high glaciers of the Himalayas, the largest and tallest of all mountains. It comes as no surprise that billions of people of these regions humble themselves at the feet of these mountains and rivers. We literally owe our lives to the Great mountains and mighty rivers that flow from them. For centuries these pristine glaciers have attracted adventurers and pilgrims alike.
I along with my friends followed the Pindar river to the fabled Pindari glacier (3660 mtrs) and the journey has been a fabulous experience for us.

Warning Signs; An Appeal:

The glaciers melt throughout the year and form the rivers and every winter it rebuilds itself from rain and snow. But due to global warming, the average temperature is rising every year and the glaciers are melting away at a much faster rate than it can build itself. This glacial recession is happening right now, and it is happening more rapidly than the glaciologists have anticipated. When I visited Pindari glacier and compared the current state with the photographs my mother took, about 30 years ago, I was shocked to see how much of the glacier had eroded away.

I urge the readers to do their part to make sure these glaciers survive, otherwise the entire ecosystem will be devastated within this century.
1. Do not litter the trek routes, carry back every bit of plastic you bring with you.
2. Do not cut tree branches unnecessarily . Do not pick flowers or plants.

" Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints"  

Pindari Glacier

Season:  April -May; September - October

Har Ki Dun : The Valley of Lord Shiva & Marinda Tal

 Introduction: 

  Har Ki Dun/Doon (HKD) is a cradle shaped valley surrounded by breath-taking snowpeaks situated in the Gahrwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand. Its an ideal trek for beginners and has many aspects that the veterans will appreciate as well. The valley is overlooked by the Bandarpunch range to the South and the Swargarohini to the North . Har Ki Dun means The Valley of Har or Lord Shiva of the Hindu religion. The valley is situated at and altitude of approximately 3566 mtrs.

Bandarpunch range overlooking Jamdar Glacier & Har Ki Dun Valley

Reasons why it is an ideal trek for beginners:  

1. The altitude is below the threshold of altitude sickness.
2. The route has sufficient places to stay , so no need to take tents and other equipments.
3. The trekking route consists of river banks , jungles,green meadows (Bugyals), picturesque villages, wheat fields and what not.In most seasons there is snow as well. So a novice trekker gets the necessary experience to tackle every terrain in one go.
4. There are many agencies operating in this zone which makes it easier for the beginners to organize themselves.
5. The view is amazing.
6. After reaching HKD one can go further to Marinda Tal or Jamdar Glacier.

Sankri

Season:

• Want a lot of snow ? March-April. (accommodation not available)
• Want snow and greenery and blue sky ? April-May
• June-July is rainy season so its better to avoid them.
• September-October is probably the best time because there will a lot of flora and fauna, but chances of finding snow is slim.
• HKD offers winter trekking as well but on November-December-January there may be a lot of snow. The accommodation at HKD remains closed so tent is a must.
  

  

Banderpunch Peak From Har-Ki-Dun

Itinerary:

Day 1: Dehradun to Sankri/Taluka

Day 2: Sankri/Taluka to Seema (14 Km trek) [easy gradient]

Day 3: Seema to Har Ki Dun (12Km trek) [moderate to steep gradient]

Day 4: HKD to Marinda Tal and Back (3.5+3.5 = 7Km) or alternatively HKD to Jamdar Glacier    (7.5+7.5 = 15 Km).

Day 5: HKD to Taluka/Osla/Gangad.

Day 6: Taluka to Sankri.

Day 7: Sankri to Dehradun.

Cons:

Well there aren't many, but here goes...

1. HKD has become a hot-spot for trekkers. Many large agencies bring people in large numbers without any regard for the environment. These people do not have the ability or intention of carrying their own luggage so the agencies bring huge number of mules and they ruin the entire route with their dung. Luckily for us we encountered the problem in the very last day but even that was annoying.
2. Unlike other trekking routes that I have been to, people here are a bit reluctant to provide hot water for drinking and washing.
3. Large agencies tend to hog all the resources available along the way including rest houses and sometimes food.

Do you Need A GUIDE ?

• We did this trek without a guide/porter but certainly not without guidance. From Taluka to Seema most of the path leads through a forest but the path is well marked. There are a few diversions but sticking to wider path and looking out for mule hoof marks and candy wraps helps a lot. The route all the way to HKD is fairly obvious so there is little chance of getting lost if one uses presence of mind.
• If you are a BEGINNER and do not have an EXPERIENCED MEMBER with you its imperative that you take a guide.
• The guides can explain you the other routes and the peaks too, a good guide can give you first hand information about the place.
• The locals will readily help you if you get into a fix.
• The cost of a guide / porter as of 2014 is around 500-600 Rs / day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOuNKswMjpo

Watch the slideshow of the Beautiful Har Ki Dun valley.

DAY 1:   (Dehradun to Taluka)

After a long journey to Dehradun on the following day we boarded a bus bound for Sankri. At Naitwar, we stopped to get our permits to enter Govind Wildlife Sanctuary. Sankri is the last point in this route, with bus and cell-phone connectivity. Another scenic drive along the river Tons or Tomosa took us to Taluka. Most trekkers spend the night at Sankri and make the journey to Taluka in the morning and so naturally we were the only tourists in the entire village. After our dinner we looked up at the sky and stood there spellbound by the glitter of billions of sparkling stars. We even spotted a satellite which passed over our heads and disappeared behind the dark silhouette of a hill. The chilly mountain-breeze broke our trance and we settled in for the night.

Way to HKD

DAY 2: Taluka to Seema (14 Km trek) [easy gradient]

In the next morning we confidently started our 14 km trek to Seema, without any guide or porter. The first few kilometres along river Supin were truly refreshing; the golden rays of the sun penetrated the pine canopy every now and then as if playing peek-a-boo and exotic birds created a sweet melody.



The uphill climb through the forest was gruelling and my rucksack felt twice as heavy as it did in the first few hours. We were resting frequently as the climb became steeper. In the early afternoon we reached the beautiful village of Gangad, from there Seema is another 4 km uphill. It took us six hours to reach Seema from Taluka. Seema is just a halting point for trekkers and climbers, consisting of Rest Houses of Gahrwal Mandal Vikash Nigam and the Forest Department and two-three canteens cum makeshift shelters.



Unlike Taluka the night sky was covered with clouds. At night we slept like logs in the GMVN dormitory, unaware of the rampage Mother Nature was causing outside.

Seema

DAY 3:  Seema to Har Ki Dun (12Km trek) [moderate to steep gradient]

The rain let up in the morning and we started our 12 km journey to Har-Ki-Dun, the valley of “Har” or Shiva. The sky was blue and we could see the glistening snow peaks at a distance. After the initial climb the path bifurcates, the left one leading to Osla village and the right one towards Har-Ki-Dun, following a tributary of Tomosa. The narrow path led us through lush green fields, pine forests, wide grasslands and offered pleasing vistas of snow-white mountains throughout. We were very tired, every step took extra effort but we kept on going. Just when I thought I could go no more, I spotted a rock on which someone had scribbled “Welcome To Har-Ki-Dun.”




After taking those last few steps, we stood there, overwhelmed by the sheer grandeur of the place. Our aching limbs and the gripping cold forced our attention to the more immediate issue of finding a shelter. There were a few tents erected by trekkers and at a distance we could see the FRH and GMVN bungalow situated over a ridge, directly overlooking the valley. We were allotted a small hexagonal wooden hut maintained by the forest department. After an early dinner we went to bed.


 

Har Ki Dun (GMVN Bungalow)

 DAY 4: HKD to Marinda Tal and Back (3.5+3.5 = 7Km)

The next morning we had a good look at the magnificent panorama of Har-Ki-Dun. To the south the towering Swargarohini massif provides a majestic backdrop to the green valley. The river Har-Ki-Dun-Gad flows through the “U”-shaped valley from Jamdar glacier like a silver ribbon. At a distance we could also see the precipitous Banderpunch range. Swargarohini means “Pathway to Heaven”, legend has it that the Pandavas from the epic Mahabharata attempted to climb it to reach Heaven.



After breakfast we headed north, for Marinda Tal. It is a fine 3.5 km trek over grassy meadows ornamented with colourful wild-flowers and soft snow.

Marinda Tal

Marinda Tal is not a lake per se, a giant rock partially blocked the path of Marinda Gad, thus forming a wide water-body with little current. To the south one could see the Swargarohini and towards the north the Borasu pass continued through snow-covered cliffs on both sides, all the way to Sangla Valley in Himachal Pradesh. After spending an hour in this snowy fairyland, with a heavy heart we started our return journey.

Borasu Pass

The breath-taking views, the eerie silence of Har-Ki-Dun generates a sense of mystery and tranquillity. It is indeed a land of legends and a valley befitting God.