The diversity of flora and fauna that we Indians are blessed with is facing devastation. Pollution, poaching, deforestation, urbanisation, large-scale hydro-electric projects all of these factors and more are catalysing this cataclysmic phenomenon. The most alarming part is the lack of awareness of our people and our utter ignorance. Tourism can help raise awareness if done in a eco-friendly manner. When in the wilderness we must tune ourselves in such a way that we do not leave any lasting impact on that place. A wilderness explorer must be a silent observer.
Satkosia Tiger Reserve boasts a diverse gorge eco-system with deciduous plants. It is situated at the bank of river Mahanadi, the largest river in the state of Orissa. A great place for wildlife enthusiasts to spend a few days in.
BOOKING:
Booking and entry permit is done officially through the website of Orissa eco-tourism.
https://www.ecotourodisha.com/index.php
Please check the current rates from the site. At the time of our booking it was around 2500-4000 Rs. for 2 persons (Including food and lodging) depending on the location. But the online transaction takes a whopping 10% of the total amount as transaction fees. Another thing to note is that the payment portal DOES NOT accept RUPAY cards ( even though that is not mentioned in the website).
Alternatively you can try your luck by spot booking , that would spare you the transaction charges, but I would not advise that. You can stay at one place for maximum of 2 days at a stretch.
Here are a few contact numbers:
DFO Office Satkosia: +918763102681
Shamim Chauhan (Site Manager Satkosia) : +8658023333
HOW TO REACH:
Satkosia has many nature camps and can be approached from different districts. The most popular destination is Tikarpada/ Tikarpara which is located approximately 58 km from the town of Angul. Angul is approachable from Bhubaneswar. the Capital city of Orissa either by bus (160 km) or by train.
Train journey is faster and much more comfortable, but from Angul Railway station you can either book an auto-rickshaw to take you to Tikarpara. They will probably charge you about 1000 Rs. You can arrange private cars prior to your journey from travel agents as well. What we did is to take an auto to Angul Bus-stand (Rs 30 per head) and booked another one to take us to Tikarpada ( Rs 650).
For more details visit https://www.ecotourodisha.com/exploreecotourism.php
ITINERARY:
Day 1: Reach Bhubaneswar (preferably early in the morning).
Satkosia Tiger Reserve boasts a diverse gorge eco-system with deciduous plants. It is situated at the bank of river Mahanadi, the largest river in the state of Orissa. A great place for wildlife enthusiasts to spend a few days in.
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Tikarpara Nature Camp |
Booking and entry permit is done officially through the website of Orissa eco-tourism.
https://www.ecotourodisha.com/index.php
Please check the current rates from the site. At the time of our booking it was around 2500-4000 Rs. for 2 persons (Including food and lodging) depending on the location. But the online transaction takes a whopping 10% of the total amount as transaction fees. Another thing to note is that the payment portal DOES NOT accept RUPAY cards ( even though that is not mentioned in the website).
Alternatively you can try your luck by spot booking , that would spare you the transaction charges, but I would not advise that. You can stay at one place for maximum of 2 days at a stretch.
Here are a few contact numbers:
DFO Office Satkosia: +918763102681
Shamim Chauhan (Site Manager Satkosia) : +8658023333
HOW TO REACH:
Satkosia has many nature camps and can be approached from different districts. The most popular destination is Tikarpada/ Tikarpara which is located approximately 58 km from the town of Angul. Angul is approachable from Bhubaneswar. the Capital city of Orissa either by bus (160 km) or by train.
Train journey is faster and much more comfortable, but from Angul Railway station you can either book an auto-rickshaw to take you to Tikarpara. They will probably charge you about 1000 Rs. You can arrange private cars prior to your journey from travel agents as well. What we did is to take an auto to Angul Bus-stand (Rs 30 per head) and booked another one to take us to Tikarpada ( Rs 650).
For more details visit https://www.ecotourodisha.com/exploreecotourism.php
ITINERARY:
Day 1: Reach Bhubaneswar (preferably early in the morning).
- Bhuwaneswar - Angul (Via train or Bus)
- Angul - Tikarpada ( Reserve an Auto Rickshaw to Tikarpada Nature Camp; It will cost you about 600/- to 700/-). Nightstay.
Day2: Visit GRACU (Gharial Research and Conservation unit). Take a boat across the river. if you are lucky you can see crocodiles basking on the river bank.
Day 3: Tikarpada - Purunakote/ Chhotkei
Day 4: Purunakote-Angul-Bhubaneswar
TIKARPARA:
To reach Tikarpara you have to enter through Pampasar entry gate of Satkosia Tiger Reserve and show your documents there. From Pampasar its approximately 30 kms to Tikarpara naure camp. We reached Tikarpara before noon. I was a bit disheartened to know that the tents which provides accommodation for the tourists are no longer pitched on the sandy bank of Mahanadi, Nonetheless when we saw the place we were more than delighted. The tents are pitched in well maintained patch of grassy land, surrounded by paddy and mustard fields, and just overlooking the great river 'Mahanadi', which reflected the hills like a mirror. After a hearty meal of fresh fish from the river with steamed rice, accompanied by mandatory cauliflower sabji,dal and potato fry and a much needed power nap we set out with our cameras to explore the river bank.
As we took a small steep path down into the bank, we realised that the bank is no longer sandy on this side of the river, it is filled with rocks and hence unfit for pitching tents. After this monsoon the sands shifted to the other side. A Majhi (boatman) approached us, offering to give us a tour of the river for 400 Rs. We agreed happily, but he stopped after a few stokes and said that the boat can no longer proceed because of shallow water. We got off after the 5 minute boatride and waddled through the knee deep water to reach the opposite shore. After walking for a few minutes towards something which apparently looked like a log, the boatman shouted and called us back saying its prohibited to go further.
Disheartened by this fruitless boat-ride we paid 150Rs, even that was unjustified. Anyway we later realised the log was a big Mahanadi croc and cursed the boatman for not letting us get closer to take a shot. Tikarpara is famous for wild crocodiles, but villagers' reckless encroachment of forests and river led to heavy loss of habitat for these pre-historic giants.
We took a stroll to the GRACU facility and watched gharials and crocodiles in captivity. We also spotted a Indian Giant squirrel up on the canopies.
Twilight was quite spectacular and as darkness enveloped the land, a sense of tranquility and peace engulfed us. The silence, the darkness deprived our senses from the inputs we were accustomed to have in our daily urban lives. After a few minutes as our eyes began to adjust to the darkness, we saw something which evaded us city dwellers throughout the year, Stars. Literally every-part of the visible sky was covered with stars, we were awestruck. We finished our snacks with fritters of different kinds from a local shop and headed off to our tent. A good thing about this place is that there is little or no cell-phone reception ( BSNL, very weak Airtel), which provided us with a much needed isolation.
TIKARPARA:
To reach Tikarpara you have to enter through Pampasar entry gate of Satkosia Tiger Reserve and show your documents there. From Pampasar its approximately 30 kms to Tikarpara naure camp. We reached Tikarpara before noon. I was a bit disheartened to know that the tents which provides accommodation for the tourists are no longer pitched on the sandy bank of Mahanadi, Nonetheless when we saw the place we were more than delighted. The tents are pitched in well maintained patch of grassy land, surrounded by paddy and mustard fields, and just overlooking the great river 'Mahanadi', which reflected the hills like a mirror. After a hearty meal of fresh fish from the river with steamed rice, accompanied by mandatory cauliflower sabji,dal and potato fry and a much needed power nap we set out with our cameras to explore the river bank.
As we took a small steep path down into the bank, we realised that the bank is no longer sandy on this side of the river, it is filled with rocks and hence unfit for pitching tents. After this monsoon the sands shifted to the other side. A Majhi (boatman) approached us, offering to give us a tour of the river for 400 Rs. We agreed happily, but he stopped after a few stokes and said that the boat can no longer proceed because of shallow water. We got off after the 5 minute boatride and waddled through the knee deep water to reach the opposite shore. After walking for a few minutes towards something which apparently looked like a log, the boatman shouted and called us back saying its prohibited to go further.
 |
The Apparent Log |
Disheartened by this fruitless boat-ride we paid 150Rs, even that was unjustified. Anyway we later realised the log was a big Mahanadi croc and cursed the boatman for not letting us get closer to take a shot. Tikarpara is famous for wild crocodiles, but villagers' reckless encroachment of forests and river led to heavy loss of habitat for these pre-historic giants.
We took a stroll to the GRACU facility and watched gharials and crocodiles in captivity. We also spotted a Indian Giant squirrel up on the canopies.
 |
Giant Indian/Malabar Squirrel |
Twilight was quite spectacular and as darkness enveloped the land, a sense of tranquility and peace engulfed us. The silence, the darkness deprived our senses from the inputs we were accustomed to have in our daily urban lives. After a few minutes as our eyes began to adjust to the darkness, we saw something which evaded us city dwellers throughout the year, Stars. Literally every-part of the visible sky was covered with stars, we were awestruck. We finished our snacks with fritters of different kinds from a local shop and headed off to our tent. A good thing about this place is that there is little or no cell-phone reception ( BSNL, very weak Airtel), which provided us with a much needed isolation.
 |
Twilight At Tikarpara |
The next morning we walked around the village and veered into the jungle and captured some local birds. Here are some of those snaps.
We have spent a significant amount of time watching crocodile species kept at GRACU (Gharial Research and Conservation Unit). Gharials are not crocodiles or aligators, because they neither belong to the Cocodylidae nor Aligatoridae family. They are the sole surviving species of the Gavialidae family. Gharials are fish eating reptiles and are critically endangered and hence they are required to be conserved much more diligently. The destruction of their habitat throughout the nation must be stopped. Here are some photographs of them in captivity.
The Mahanadi is home to different species of crocodiles also like Mugger and Saltwater crocs, all of which are endangered. These Giants had survived the cataclysmic event that wiped out the dinosaurs, and evolved over billions of years. Now they are on the brink of extinction because of us all.
Time has come to bid adieu to Tikarpara. We returned to the tent and packed our things, watched the photographs together, discussed environmental issues with the locals. After a sumptuous meal of chicken and chapatis under the starry skies we settled in for the night.
PURUNAKOTE:
The next morning we took the 10 am bus from Tikarpara to go to Purunakote, which is another village 7 km away. Actually we have passed through Purunakote on our way to Tikarpara. The Forest rest house at Purunakote is situated on a small hilltop, overlooking the small village and has a dense jungle as the backyard. We were immediately attracted by the seclusion it provided.
We were the only two persons staying there. The caretaker advised us to take an auto-rickshaw safari (700 Rs) and we agreed. After we finished gorging up rice, salad, dal, fried veggies and egg curry, which were probably meant for atleast 3 people, we prepared for our journey. The auto-rickshaw was making such a thunderous noise that one could not hear one's own thoughts. We bid goodbye to any chance of spotting rare wildlife. Tourists are not allowed entrance into the core area of the forest.
Just near the border of the core area the driver braked suddenly and motioned towards his right. We got off and spotted 3 Barking Deers. They were no larger than big dogs, had markings on their forehead. I quickly took some snaps and after a few seconds they disappeared back into the forest.
We also visited a small waterfall inside a village in the forest. We returned to the FRH on foot from the village centre where we left the noisy auto. It was dark and the dimly lit cottage overshadowed by large sal trees was more than enough to give us goosebumps.
The environment was eerie to say the least. We ordered chicken for dinner and the caretaker had asked for extra 150 Rs. to make arrangements. We took this opportunity to request chicken pakoras. Crispy chicken pakoras with steaming hot cofee in a chilly evening and good company, what else do you need? We also had an amazing dinner, and our tired bodies were ready to surrender themselves to the comfort of the warm bed. Everything was perfect, or so we thought !!!
TRAGEDY !!
In the morning my friend woke up earlier and removed the curtains and immediately called me. I woke up startled, he pointed towards the window sill and I saw my camera pack was lying there. He opened the flap and surely enough, the bag was empty. I was certain that my friend was playing tricks on me, but when I saw his face I knew, MY CAMERA HAD BEEN STOLEN !!
We were shell shocked, I kept it on the bed near the edge, about 6 ft from the partially closed window. Someone must have pulled it out by a long branch or something. My friend calmed me down, as I was having a breakdown. We went to the caretaker and told him everything. The entire FRH area is secluded, only us and the caretaker was there along with 5 local youths acting as his helper. Furthermore the rest house is just meters away from Ranger's Barracks and within 100 meters from the police station. We urged the caretaker to assist us to go to the police station, he was very worried and introduced us to the head ranger as well as the SI. They listened to what we had to say, summoned everyone who were there since yesterday. They gave a speech and assured the locals that nothing will happen if they return our camera. We all knew that an outsider coming there in the middle of the night and taking our camera is highly improbable. And a stern speech with mixed threat did the trick, my camera was returned to me discreetly within the hour. I was the happiest person on earth. But unfortunately some pictures including those of the barking deers were deleted.
Even the most honest of people may sometime sway from the path of righteousness, but I would not have got my camera back without the help of the local authorities. I thank them from the bottom of my heart.
We missed the morning bus, but all's well that ends well. We have been fortunate enough to meet good people with charming smiles, beautiful birds and soothing vistas. We started our journey home happy as larks.
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Clockwise From the Top: Green Bee-eater, Oriental Magpie Robin, Common Iora, Little Egret, Red Whiskered Bulbul |
The Mahanadi is home to different species of crocodiles also like Mugger and Saltwater crocs, all of which are endangered. These Giants had survived the cataclysmic event that wiped out the dinosaurs, and evolved over billions of years. Now they are on the brink of extinction because of us all.
Time has come to bid adieu to Tikarpara. We returned to the tent and packed our things, watched the photographs together, discussed environmental issues with the locals. After a sumptuous meal of chicken and chapatis under the starry skies we settled in for the night.
PURUNAKOTE:
The next morning we took the 10 am bus from Tikarpara to go to Purunakote, which is another village 7 km away. Actually we have passed through Purunakote on our way to Tikarpara. The Forest rest house at Purunakote is situated on a small hilltop, overlooking the small village and has a dense jungle as the backyard. We were immediately attracted by the seclusion it provided.
 |
FRH Purunakote |
 |
Common Iora Enjoying a Meal |
Just near the border of the core area the driver braked suddenly and motioned towards his right. We got off and spotted 3 Barking Deers. They were no larger than big dogs, had markings on their forehead. I quickly took some snaps and after a few seconds they disappeared back into the forest.
We also visited a small waterfall inside a village in the forest. We returned to the FRH on foot from the village centre where we left the noisy auto. It was dark and the dimly lit cottage overshadowed by large sal trees was more than enough to give us goosebumps.
 |
Clockwise From The top: Plum-headed Parakeet, Black-hooded Oriole, Green Bee-eater |
The environment was eerie to say the least. We ordered chicken for dinner and the caretaker had asked for extra 150 Rs. to make arrangements. We took this opportunity to request chicken pakoras. Crispy chicken pakoras with steaming hot cofee in a chilly evening and good company, what else do you need? We also had an amazing dinner, and our tired bodies were ready to surrender themselves to the comfort of the warm bed. Everything was perfect, or so we thought !!!
In the morning my friend woke up earlier and removed the curtains and immediately called me. I woke up startled, he pointed towards the window sill and I saw my camera pack was lying there. He opened the flap and surely enough, the bag was empty. I was certain that my friend was playing tricks on me, but when I saw his face I knew, MY CAMERA HAD BEEN STOLEN !!
We were shell shocked, I kept it on the bed near the edge, about 6 ft from the partially closed window. Someone must have pulled it out by a long branch or something. My friend calmed me down, as I was having a breakdown. We went to the caretaker and told him everything. The entire FRH area is secluded, only us and the caretaker was there along with 5 local youths acting as his helper. Furthermore the rest house is just meters away from Ranger's Barracks and within 100 meters from the police station. We urged the caretaker to assist us to go to the police station, he was very worried and introduced us to the head ranger as well as the SI. They listened to what we had to say, summoned everyone who were there since yesterday. They gave a speech and assured the locals that nothing will happen if they return our camera. We all knew that an outsider coming there in the middle of the night and taking our camera is highly improbable. And a stern speech with mixed threat did the trick, my camera was returned to me discreetly within the hour. I was the happiest person on earth. But unfortunately some pictures including those of the barking deers were deleted.
 |
Thank You !! |
We missed the morning bus, but all's well that ends well. We have been fortunate enough to meet good people with charming smiles, beautiful birds and soothing vistas. We started our journey home happy as larks.
nice post, keep up with this interesting work. It really is good to know that this topic is being covered also on this web site so cheers for taking time to discuss this!
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